On Saturday, October 3rd I arrived in St. Augustine (City Hall pictured): the cycling crossroads of the South. The town marks the beginning (or end) of the Southern Tier cross-country bike route, which runs from Florida to San Diego, and the Atlantic Coast route I'm riding intersects here as well. St. Augustine has several additional claims to fame for non-cyclists. It was established by the Spanish in 1565, making it one of the oldest cities in the U.S. In 1738 it hosted America's first free community of ex-slaves -- more than a century before slavery ended. And, to top it off, notorious jelly manufacturer S.B. Valls first brough the flavorful and exceptionally hot datil pepper here from Cuba in the 1800s.
I tried, but the truth is, I didn't much like St. Augustine. Although the city hosts many structures of historical significance including an old hotel, a very old cathedral, and an even older fort, they've been totally Disneyfied. Walking along the waterfront at night I saw lights shining from the windows, the outlines of palm trees lining the sidewalks and boats peacefully moored in the harbor, and I could almost believe I was in a real Spanish city. By day, however, tourist trolleys clang by every few minutes and any grandeur that was present is obscured by neon signs and informational plaques. It just felt sleazy.
I totally felt the same way about St. Augustine, even though the gentle, elderly man I was visiting there assured me with a twinkle in his eye that it was the "oldest city in the world!"
ReplyDeleteYou're my hero.